Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Sliding Yesterday

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Yesterday Uyaana and I took the dogs out for a run out behind town.



As you can see the weather was starting to close in.



It was about 20 degrees ABOVE zero so it was actually pretty warm out. The wind was blowing at about 25 mph.



Uyaana and the dogs had a great time sliding down the hill and then running back up for about an hour.



Here is Mike Williams Jr. getting ready to take his dogs for a training run today. Mike is the son of Iditarod musher Mike Williams Sr. This will be Mike Jr's first Kobuk 440.



Tonight's sunset. This was taken at 9:14pm. Today sunset was at 9:44pm. Cuvil twilight, the time after sunset when twilight is gone and it is dark was at 10:40pm.

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Monday, March 30, 2009

Busy Busy

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Sorry I haven't been around much. It was a busy weekend and I didn't have a chance to take any pictures of anything interesting. This weekend is going to be kind of crazy. Between work, class, and getting ready for the Kobuk 440 I am going to be lucky to get any photos or posts in. I will try to get something in each day. It may not be my own stuff. Might be a link to something interesting to keep you occupied.

This weekend will be be very busy starting on Thursday with the start of the Kobuk 440 sled dog race. We have been having some trouble with logistics as the volcano has not been cooperating. People are still trying to get here with all their dogs and stuff. So far this is who we have that are HERE and ready to go...
-Chuck Schaeffer, Kotzebue/Ivik
-Ed Iten Kotzebue/Fish Creek
-Another Ed Iten team
-John Baker, Kotzebue
-Heath Coro, Kotzebue
-Mike Williams Jr., Akiak
-Dempsey Woods, Nome
-Pete Kaiser, Bethel
-Jerry Riley, Nenana
We have approximately 7 "maybes" still trying to get here.

On Friday will be the start of the Arctic Circle Championship dog races. These are sprint dogs. And on Saturday will be the Archie Ferguson Willie Goodwin Memorial Snowmachine Race. So there will be lots of photos of lots of different things starting on Thursday, so be patient and bear with me until then.

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Saturday, March 28, 2009

Fishin' Fever

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Sorry it's been so quite here. Friday was really busy with work and class and FISHING! No time to post I have been busy today with a couple mushers who have arrived for the Kobuk 440. We are having some major issues with mushers trying to get here but they can't because so many of ou flights have been canceled out of Anchorage due to Mt. Redoubt ash.


Sheefish season is now in full swing.




Friday after work we went out fishing. We caught 26 in less than two hours.




Here is Uyaana's first sheefish of the season. It was at least 30lbs and he pulled it out of the hole himself.




When he got tired of fishing he had fun playing with his cousin, Kaisa.





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Thursday, March 26, 2009

Dog Fight

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The weather has been so nice the past few days.




The dogs have been happy because they have been able to go run around out behind town.




They can run for miles.




Kaija loves to roll in the snow....




...but of course Rush always has to butt in and cause problems.




See what I mean.




Kind of like an annoying little brother.




So then of course Kaija feels the need to put him in his place.




But Rush is so dumb. He thinks she wants to play.




So Kaija opens a can of whoop ass on him......





















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Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Super Duper Smarty Boy

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Here is my smarty boy.




This quarter Uyaana made Superintendent's List for getting straight A's. Look out Harvard.





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Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Because it's Ukiuq and it's Cold Outside

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Anyone remember this? It was filmed in Noatak, Alaska for Sesame Street in the 1980's

LOVE IT!!!




Thanks to Maija for finding the video.

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Monday, March 23, 2009

2009 Kobuk 440 Info

Race Date: April 2, 2009

Start Time: 4:40pm

Entry Fee: $440 plus $100 dog drop fee

Bag Drop deadline: All bags must be received at FBX building at the Kotzebue airport no later than 5pm on Monday, March 30th 2009


Prize Money

1st place $15,000.00
2nd place $8,250.00
3rd place $7,700.00
4th place $6,600.00
5th place $4,950.00
6th place $4,400.00
7th place $3,850.00
8th place $3,300.00
9th place $2,750.00
10th place $2,200.00
11th place $2000.00
12th place $1700.00
13th place $1300.00

For more information go to http://kobuk440.org
or email aqvaluq@hotmail.com

Two Year Blogiversary!

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Today is the two year anniversary of this blog. Those of you who know me well know what an amazing feat that is for me. I'm not usually long on attention span. This blog started out as a way for me to post pictures every now and then for family and friends who live far away. At first I posted intermittently. Sometimes going weeks or months without posting. Then for some reason, in the summer of 2007 I started posting more often. Readers started trickling in. I remember being amazed that I had 20 people a day look at the blog. It was at that time that I started feeling like I had a responsibility to my readers. If there wasn't at least something new to look at I would feel bad.

Here we are, two years later and I get over 300 hits a day! Who would have thought that my simple life here in the arctic would ever be so interesting to people? I am glad that people enjoy reading and I am happy to have the chance to share this land and the people of this region that I love. It's great to hear from people through comments and email too. I have had the opportunity to meet lots of interesting people through this blog and really I think that is the best part.

So, in celebration of the two year blogiversary of Keeping it Real at 66 Degrees North Latitude I want to HEAR FROM YOU!! The regulars, the lurkers, the newbies, the passersby.....leave a comment, say hello. Don't be shy...afterall you are all the reason that I do this. How did you find us? Where are you from? And be sure to take my "What's Your Alaska Status" poll on the sidebar at the right.

Thanks again to everyone for being a part of my life because really, you all are. This blog has become a integral part of my daily existence and I feel that it has enriched it in a positive way.

Cathy

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Sunday, March 22, 2009

Day 3- Doc Harris and Dan Snyder Sr Memorial Combo

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Aww look.....




...isn't she cute.




Virgil, the official time keeper.



Tose guys man the turn. They make sure all the mushers make a right hand turn here. When all the mushers have gone through they pull up the willow barrier blocking the other trail becasue thet is the way the teams will head back to the finish.



Buddo's dog is wondering what the hold up is.



Uyaana's uncle Chuck helps Buddo hold his team before the start.



Everybody is bouncing...



...and leaping.....



...and jumping.



It takes two guys to hold the sled back just before the start.



As you can see today the dogs were marked with green paint and Chuck's leaders already had it all over their face.



Buddoo 1st.



Paul 2nd.



Luke 3rd.



Cyrus 4th.



Chuck 5th.



Final times.

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Bandwidth Exceeded

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Well, it seems that for the first time ever I have exceeded my bandwidth with Photobucket. I have been using them to host my photos since I started this blog and haven't had any problems with it until now.

I was unaware that the free account with Photobucket has a monthly allotment of bandwidth. It had never been an issue, but in the last two months I have seen my daily blog traffic triple, so i guess that's what caused it. I had to pony up the $40 bucks for Photobucket Pro. Problem solved.

To those of you who noticed the problem thanks for the heads up. Chances are I wouldn't have noticed until way later today.

Now back to regularly scheduled programming.

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Saturday, March 21, 2009

Day 2- Doc Harris and Dan Snyder Sr Memorial Combo

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Today was the second heat of the combined Dan Snyder Senior/Doc Harris Memorial race held by the Kotzeue Dog Musher's Association.



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The race was postponed for two hours, until 2pm, due to weather. KDMA has a cut off temp of -25 for racing. They won't race if it is any colder than that. The windchill was -35F. By 2pm it had warmed up a bit and the race was on. In some of the later photos you are going to see red on some of the dogs. It looks like blood, but it isn't. It's paint. Each dog in a team is marked on the shoulder with paint before each race. Yesterday's color was green. Today was red. Tomorrow will be some other color. Mushers can drop a dog out of their team, but they cannot exchange it for a new dog and the paint is a way to prove that these are all the original dogs each day. With all the hopping and jumping and barking the dogs have a tendency to smear the paint all over each others faces and bodies.




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This is one of Buddoo's lead dogs.



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Another one of Buddoo's dogs. I think he has some of the handsomest dogs.




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Especially Mr. Photogenic here.



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One of Paul's dogs napping in the sun waiting his turn to be hooked to the sled.



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Paul's dogs wondering what the heck I'm doing standing behind them making kissy noises.



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Little girls and their pretty parkies.



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Here's somebody taking off. The mushers took off in the order that they placed yesterday.



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Yoi, here's some handsome fellas.



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Watching to see if the mushers are coming in for the finish yet.



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First place was Buddoo Gallahorn.



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Second place Paul Hansen.



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Third place Luke Sampson.



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Fourth place Cyrus Harris.



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5th place Chuck Schaeffer.



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Here is the board. The first column after the name is how many dogs they were running. The column marked day 1 day 2 shows the times for each day and then shows the two times added together. Whoever has the best time over all three days wins.

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Friday, March 20, 2009

Doc Harris and Dan Snyder Sr Memorial Combo

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Because of the bad weather we had in the last month we have had a few dog races cancelled. Now we are nearing the end of march. The Arctic Circle Championship which takes place the first weekend in April signals the end of mushing season here so there isn't enough time to make up all the cancelled races. Kotzebue Dog Musher's Association decided to combine the Dan Snyder Sr and Doc Harris Memorial Races into one race three heat race with a combined purse.



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Hi Auntie Allie!



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The dogs were, of course, excited....



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...and bouncing all over.



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Chuck Schaeffer gets some help tying on his bib. And now for the usual in and out photos......



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First out is Chuck Schaeffer with 14 Dogs. Chucks dogs are more distance dogs than sprint dogs. He is entered in this year's Kobuk 440. I think he is racing today for to give his dogs some extra exercise and experience being around crowds.



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Second out is Cyrus Harris (Doc Harris' son) with 13 dogs.



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Third out is Buddoo Gallahorn with 16 Dogs.



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Fourth out is Luke Sampson with 14 dogs.



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Fifth out is Paul Hansen with 14 dogs.

This race has (I think) a 16 dog limit. It is a 16 mile loop trail. The mushers leave the chute on at a time at two minute intervals. The following photos are posted in the order that they came in, NOT the order that they placed.


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The first musher in was Buddoo who came in 1st place.



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Second in was Cyrus Harris who placed 4th.



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Third in was Luke Sampson who placed 3rd.



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Fourth in was Paul Hansen who placed 2nd.



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Fifth in was Chuck Schaeffer who placed 5th.



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Here are the results for day 1. There will be two more heats to this race, one on Saturday and one on Sunday.

Happy Vernal Equinox!!!!

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Today is the first day of spring. The sun is shining brightly here this morning but there is not much springlike about the temperature.

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Thursday, March 19, 2009

I Hate My Computer...

...but it's probably not my computer's fault. I'm, not very nice to it. I back my photos up to disk about once a month but everything is still on the hard drive. The good, the bad, and the ugly. I have a megaton of photos. I'm sure I also have a bunch of worms and trojans and doodads on here that shouldn't be. I keep meaning to transfer all the photos onto my external hard drive and wipe my whole computer out to nothing. I never get around to it so my computer issssss ssssssooooooooooooo sssssllllloooooooooooowwwwwwwww. I don't think I can avoid the chore much longer.

I had a bunch of photos that I wanted to post today but because my computer sucks I only managed to edit two.


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I think this is Nuvugraq. It is a seasonal subsistence area about 10 miles from Kotzebue. I could see this without the telephoto lens and wasn't sure what it was. Normally you can not see Nuvugraq so well. Something special about the atmospheric conditions today made it really easy to see.



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Another beautiful day.

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Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Yesterday's Photos

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I tried to post these last night but photobucket wasn't cooperating.

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These last few days have been beautifully sunny. It's like maybe mother nature is trying to make up for dumping on us. Now if only it would warm up :)



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We took the dogs out to run around up on the base road away from town. Uyaana was happy to go play in the snow somewhere different.



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The temp was about -2F but the bright sunshine made it seem warmer. This is the time of year where you actually start feeling some warmth in the sun.



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Monday, March 16, 2009

Thinking of Spring

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For the most part I don't mind winter. Like everyone else I do my fair share of whining about the cold but usually I soldier on ok. This winter, however, has me weary. It's getting old. The other day a friend in upstate NY left a message on my facebook..."Take a look at our weather forcast for next week." I looked it up and they were supposed to reach 50F all week. *sigh* We don't even see that kind of weather until JUNE.


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I look at this photo and I am ready for spring!



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I am ready to smell the tundra as it wakes up from a long winter.



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I am ready to play out in the sun with my boy and my dogs.



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I am ready to hook for sheefish out on the ice in my shirtsleeves.



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I am ready for puddles and mud.

Two more months to go.

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Saturday, March 14, 2009

Did I mention We Have a Lot of Snow????

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Last Sunday and Monday we had another big blizzard. It died down about Monday night and then first thing Tuesday morning I caught the jet to Anchorage so I never did see much of the aftermath until today. Remember This post? Well, it's much worse now. Twice as bad.



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Lena! Where's your house?!?



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How about this one?



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I bet this cuts down on cold drafts.



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Someone needs to shovel out Joe and Lydia.



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Alaska Technical Center.



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This canyon is at least 8-10 feet deep.



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And so is this one.



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And this one.



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We are going to be in big trouble come May.



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The city is never gonna be able to haul all those snow banks out onto the ice before they melt.



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Never mind rubber boots, we're all gonna need hip waders.

Friday, March 13, 2009

Can I just tell you.......


...that it is 9pm and it is still light out!! Woo hoooo!!

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Flashback Friday

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Kindergarten 1977. Ummmmmm......yeah.

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New Goodies

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I have been saving up my shekels from the money I make from photography here and there and I was able to order some new goodies.



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Look at this most beeeeee-yooo-tious thing! I am soooo excited to try this out. This is my first real "grown up" lens. I almost had to sell Uyaana to the gypsies to afford it.



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It comes in this spiffy case.



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Here it is out of the box. It's huge.



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When you put the lens hood on it looks ginormous.

I gotta few other things too but the lens was the biggie and it will be fun to try it out both indoors and out.

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Thursday, March 12, 2009

Sorry So Quiet

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Sorry it's been so quiet around here. I just got back from a couple days in anchorage. I left on Tuesday morning. That morning when I woke up I was feeling kind of funny, like I might be coming down with something, By the time we landed in Anchorage 3 hours later I was full blown sick with some kind of chest plague. It was a rough couple of days because I still had a conference to go to and grocery shopping to be done. It was exhausting. So now that I am back and feeling a little bit better things should be back to normal.

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Monday, March 9, 2009

Holy Cow!

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A wind gust at 89.8 mph at 6:49am??? Is this a typo?

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Visability is Minus 30

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What's minus 30 visability you say? That means nevermind seeing where your going, you don't even know where you have been.

The phone rang this morning. It was one of the teachers on the "notification tree" calling my mom (she works at the school)to let her know that the decision has been made to cancel school. My mom however wasn't home to answer the phone. She was STILL at her other job. She works 3pm to 11pm somewhere else on the weekends. No one was able to relieve her at 11am and no one was able to relieve her this morning at 7am. She said there's a 4 foot snow drift in fromnt of the door and she hasn't heard a snowplow since before midnight.

I brought the dogs outside to their pen so they could go potty and we were immediately shellaqued with 60mph snow. Even my my dogs, who usually love stomy weather, were unimpressed.

Somehow there is someone at the radio station. He must have teleported himself there. I thought for sure they would be running automated this morning. So far his announcements say that school is closed, Maiilaq and just about everything else is closed until 1pm (yay for me), and everyone needs to stay home because most of the roads are impassible because Kotzebue Public Works has given up due to zero visability. I don't blame 'em.



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...But it Was Nice Out on Saturday

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Saturday was a beautiful day so we took the dogs out for a run.

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Sunday, March 8, 2009

Howling Like A Dog Outside

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Yep. Another blizzard. We keep getting hammered, one right after another. In 23 days we have had what seems to be 11 separate storms. Somebody chime in here if they have a different count than me. Maybe I'll call the weather service and get an accurate count. The school has already declared a delayed opening for tomorrow. School will start at 10am. I guess they are erring on the side of caution, especially after the debacle of February 27th were several kids in special ed were stuck at the school until midnight.

Well I won't be going to work until 10 am either. Gonna need that extra time to shovel another trench to my truck.

Reader Mail

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"Thank you very much for your site! I now live in Fairbanks but many years ago, I used to live in Kotzebue! 1979-1983 to be exact! My oldest son was born there, and so was my daughter, so it is with great interest that I read your blog! When I first discovered your blog, (a few weeks ago!) I stayed up till 1 a.m. reading it, and going through your back blogs to look at the pictures. I'm amazed at how much Kotzebue has grown!

When I lived there, I lived in different places. The first place we rented was 'up town'. It was the furthest house up on that end of town. I'd look out the bathroom window and watch the blowing snow, and I'd see a tower close by. Now I hear that Kotzebue has grown beyond that 'last house' that I used to live at! We've also rented a home just right behind Rottmans store. We also lived at the kic apartments, on the first floor. That was probably my favorite place to have rented because of the running water, and not having to worry about running out of fuel oil! Then last of all, I rented a house that used to be located up near the Kotzebue tech center.

I can remember one time we had a snow storm so fierce that it looked just like the pictures you have posted! During that time a little 4 year old boy went missing. He must be around 34 years old now, or thereabouts. I can remember his mothers face, but I don't remember her name. Well during that time he went missing, the whole town was looking for him. They found that little boy out on the ice face down, but he was alive. He was a few miles out onto the ice, because the blowing snow had pushed him out, and he got lost. It was a miracle that he was found alive!

During that time, I rode on a snow machine and we didn't know that we would fly off of a snow drift that covered the street right out front of the kic apartments! I was 9 months pregnant at that time, and we went air born cause the 'road' we were on, suddenly disappeared, and reappeared to be about 15 feet below us! We landed on that snow machine, perfectly intact, and continued on our merry way!

We used to always go out tomcod fishing too! Some days that was to be our meals, not having other meats to eat, because some times that pay check just didn't seem to stretch! I was thankful for the tomcods and thankful that they tasted so good!

I can also remember, walking on front street. I young eskimo man was riding a bicycle, and passed me. He kept wolf whistling at me, not watching where he was going. He ended up in the ocean! I didn't want to embarrass him, but I sure felt like to laugh! Back then I was young and 19! I never did find out his name, or who he was, and I'm sure after that, he'd probably not want me to remember who he was, after landing himself in the ocean!
Well, I will let you go, and I just wanted to tell you, thank you. I sure do enjoy looking at these pictures, and I have never lived in Noatak, but I've always wanted to see that village, and I just did through the eyes of your camera. I sure do appreciate you showing these pictures!"

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Saturday, March 7, 2009

"Arctic Unreality"...a review of sorts...

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I've been reviewed....kinda. This made me laugh until I cried.

From "Key West Diary" blog.....

"Here's a first for me, a post with a link, it's actually from a blog I read frequently in my web list from the Arctic Circle. She's a single mother living in Kotzebue in rural Alaska, a place about as appealing to me as the fire pits of Hell (my future address I'm sure), but which nevertheless I find fascinating for the very perverse reason that I'd rather swim with piranhas in the tropics than eat seal meat and watch snow falling in the Arctic.....read the rest here."

I will make an effort to use the word "insouciance" in a sentence at least once a week.

And Still Another.........

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I guess I won't be going fishing tomorrow. *sigh*

Diggin' Out.......still

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(I had to do some heavy post processing on some of these photos which is why they look strange. They were taken in such white flat light that there was no depth to them and the snow just looked like overexposed white blob.)

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Thursday, March 5, 2009

Conquering Mt. Maureen

We have dubbed this snow drift Mt. Maureen because it sits right behind Maureen's house. It is so tall now it is partway up the second story of the house...20 feet maybe? Uyaana decided that he wanted to play out since the blizzard has calmed down a bit, but it is still blowing snow at 25-37 mph.


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Don't Come Knocking Cause We're CLOSED!


Well when I woke up at 6am to let the dogs out the wind was still howling. When I opened the door the qanichuq (storm shed) was full of snow. I let the dogs do their thing and hurried back inside. Yesterday afternoon, after looking at the weather report, I decided that if it looked like crap this morning I wasn't going to work and the boy wasn't going to school. After the storm last Friday I'm all done trying to get around in blizzards. Six days after the last big blizzard many of the roads in Kotzebue are still only one lane wide canyons carved into the snow drifts. This storm is filling those canyons back in.

So I went back to bed, secure in my decision that we weren't going anywhere. Then the phone starts ringing, first it was a delayed opening for school til 10am. Then they called back and cancelled. I turned on KOTZ Radio to see what other cancellation there were. I thought there would be one or two. I started writing as the announcer read them off, both schools closed, school district closed until further notice, KIC closed, Wells Fargo closed, airlines closed, City office closed, NANA closed, AC Store closed til further notice....I quit writing because I realized that EVERYTHING was closed (except of course essential services such as the water/sewer plant, KEA Ops, PD/FD and the hospital. This rarely happens, even during bad storms most of us still get up and slog our way to work...but after all the storms we have had in the last three weeks I think we are tired of fighting the wind and the snow. Some of these business say they will re-evaluate at 1pm whether or not to open back up. They can re-evaluate all they want, I'm not going anywhere.

So for the majority of Kotzebue, here's your mental health day. Enjoy....that is until you have to tunnel out of your houses again.

I have decided......

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...that if it still looks like this when I wake up in the morning I am going BACK TO BED!!!

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Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Noatak Village

On Tuesday I took a trip to the village of Noatak, about 55 miles north of Kotzebue. Noatak is located on the Noatak River and has a population of about 489 people.


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I flew there on a Frontier Alaska Cessna Caravan. All the villages around Kotzebue are off the road system and are accessible only by boat in the summer, snowmachine in the winter, or airplane. When I first moved to Kotzebue 12 years ago, Noatak still had barge service in the summer for supplies and fuel. Because of the changing channels in the Noatak River, the river is now too shallow. Everything in Noatak is flown in (unless people bring it themselves on a boat or snogo) that includes fuel. In this photo you can see that we are sharing space in the plane with some fresh produce packed in those boxes.


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In this photo you can see what Alaskans like to fix their planes with....duct tape!



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As you can see, the weather was pretty yucky so there was not much of a view. The mountain below is Mt. Memelak. You can see photos of this mountain that I took on better days here and here.



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Like all villages, Noatak is a mixture of old cabins....



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...and more modern type houses. If you are wondering what the antennas on the houses are they are for VHF radios. Most people have phones but EVERYONE has a VHF radio and they are used just as much, if not more, as phones are for communication.



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These houses here were built within the last couple years I think.



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Noatak has a brand new school. It opened at the beginning of this school year and is attended by approximately 171 students in grades K-12.



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The new school is beautiful and is a huge improvement over the run down, inefficient old school.



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While I was at the school some kids wanted to show me that there were some caribou out behind the gym.



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Noatak has a new clinic too. The old one was small and old. The new one has updated equipment and is easier to keep clean. Each of the 11 villages surrounding Kotzebue is hooked to the Maniilaq Health Center by using Telemedicine. You can read a good article about this system here.


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After I was done doing what I had to do it was time to head back to Kotzebue. This flight was Kotz-Noatak-Kivalina-Kotz, so we headed out in a Piper Navaho.



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Kivalina is at the tip of an 8-mile barrier island located between the Chukchi Sea and Kivalina lagoon. It lies 80 air miles northwest of Kotzebue. It has a population of approximately 398 people. I took this photo as we were flying over. The visability was poor and the window was dirty so I sharpend the photo up a bit so it would be easier to see.



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This villae has a severe Erosion problem that threatens it's existance.



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There is not much room on the barrier island. As you can see their cemetery is located right next to the runway.



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I have landed a few times in Kivalina but I have never had the oppertunity to get off and have a look around. Maybe someday.

After picking up and dropping off stuff we headed back to Kotzebue.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Oh Yah, We Sure Need More Of This!

Just in case we haven't had enough...........

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Monday, March 2, 2009

Heading Out.....again

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Tomorrow I am going to attempt to go to the village of Noatak for the day. I will be flying in on the morning flight and out on the afternoon flight...weather permitting. I may or may not get stuck there for who knows how many days...but that's ok. Noatak is one of my favorite villages and some of my favorite people live there so I will be fed and have a roof over my head and good company if the weather turns ugly.

This has just been a crappy three weeks for traveling. Yesterday was cold but the sun was shining. I was sitting outside in my truck while the engine warmed up and I could actually feel some heat from the sun coming in through the back window.

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Today there was more blowing snow. Hopefully tomorrow will be better.

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Sunday, March 1, 2009

Got snow?

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We do.


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